Fête Fever in Rural Occitanie
Originally posted on & updated on 15th October, 2024
In her latest article, Beth shares a fun-filled real-life experience at a local end-of-summer and post-harvest party in her peaceful corner of the Occitanie region. These traditional village parties are attended by many locals of all ages and backgrounds, who enjoy the opportunity to gather in a friendly atmosphere and catch – up on the latest news while enjoying the various produce from “le terroir”.
Fête Fever
“Fêtes are popular in our rural corner of southwest France, and I love them. Big, small, run over one or several days, they’re held in villages and towns throughout the summer. Stalls heave with goods, and a central theme usually features a local tradition or activity. The stars here include Agen plums, Chasselas grapes, and Lomagne white garlic. Different types will be displayed and sold, with traditional recipes and preparation methods often demonstrated.
And, since most folks here are obsessed with the sport, fêtes are a great opportunity to squeeze in a hotly contested pétanque tournament. Fast food is available, and beer tents provide much-needed lubrication. Fêtes generally conclude with a meal and entertainment in the salle des fêtes.
La Comice Agricole
In addition to holding its fête, our tiny village hosted un comice agricole, an agricultural show this year. The history behind these events is protracted, preceding the 1789 French Revolution. The objective is for farmers’ associations in an area to exchange experiences and ideas to improve agricultural processes. The event is open to the public and has various festive activities. Assuming it would be small, I wanted to find out how our village would cope with such a prestigious event.
Our Comice
A couple of friends and I went along with our dogs (obligatory at an agricultural fair) to find that the Mairie precincts and open-sided salle des fêtes had transformed into a posh-looking farmyard. Stacked bales decorated with old-fashioned milk churns overflowed with welcoming sunflowers, lavender and ivy garlands. It was the perfect entrance for a makeshift alley with umpteen stalls on one side and mini marquees with intriguing machines on the other.
We strolled across to the adjacent churchyard, joining others admiring the exhibits. The grassy area was filled with magnificent classic and decidedly elderly French cars. I’ve never seen so many old Deux Chevaux (2CV) Citroens in one place.
Contented Animals
Of course, I was dying to see the animals, and there were lots. We cooed at sheep, pigs, foal donkeys and their parents, dray horses and ponies, corralled in improvised pens, each in supreme condition. Gaggles of geese, some destined to become providers of the much-loved foie gras and others kept for their eggs and value as scary guardians, honked raucously, competing against the feisty cockerels and clucking hens next door. Breeders and owners were on hand to offer information about each species.
Haltered beef and dairy cattle lowed peacefully, standing or lying on plush straw mattresses. There were dozens tethered to the crumbly boundary walls. Calves peeped between their mums’ knees, curious and nervous all at the same time. We passed cages of hunting hounds. Some started baying, dead jealous that our dogs were allowed the run of the fair.
Machinery and Techniques
Our village cemetery stone wall was the backcloth to several agricultural machines, old, new, big and enormous. Judging by the number of farmers assembled here, this was an important chat spot. Our mayor broke away from a group to say ‘Bonjour!’ We congratulated him on presiding over such a superb event. He smiled proudly and said, “Merci, mais je suis très très fatigué!” He’s a good lad, our mayor.
We headed back towards the centre, passing children’s amusements and the obligatory bouncy castle parked next to a pen full of sheep. They were fascinated. Demonstrations of traditional skills caught our attention. Milling flour, candle making, pressing sunflower seeds to produce oil and sculptors chiselling stone to produce fine pieces – I particularly loved the delicately created scallop shell, a symbol of the Camino Ways.
Happy Humans in Bérets
Resisting the temptation to buy, we opted for ice creams and watched horse-drawn carriages taking visitors for rides around the village. Hails over loudspeakers attracted us to the main crowd, who were royally entertained by four local celebrities. Dressed in berets and traditional gear, they were standing on an old hay waggon, singing French folks songs – I say singing… Their efforts were well rewarded by a deliriously happy audience, whose yodels echoed off the ancient Mairie walls.
When we left, folks were still streaming in, no doubt keen to watch the procession of dignitaries due later that afternoon. The event concluded with a dinner attended by more than 250 diners and a dramatic fireworks finale. Our assumptions that the village would host a relatively low-key event couldn’t have been more inaccurate. It was a fantastic example of French countryside fêtes at their best. Bravo to our mayor! I can’t wait until the next one.”
Thank you so much Beth; it brings back memories of village fêtes and events, especially the original 2CV, my “grand-pere” had the same model (the middle one), they are a work of art and so much fun to drive, once you’ve learned how to start them!
For more real-life stories about rural living in southwest France, discover Beth’s latest books on her website. Tempted by this sunny area of southwest France, take a look our properties for sale in Occitanie.
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