Discovering the Canal Du Midi
Originally posted on & updated on 7th December, 2024
This month, Beth invites us on a leisurely stroll along the Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage site located in the heart of southwest France. Join her and her four-legged friends as she explores the enchanting waterways and picturesque villages that make this destination unique. From the tranquil, tree-lined paths to the vibrant towns along the shores, Beth once again shares some of her discoveries, offering a journey through the beautiful Occitanie region.
“An unexpected joy of living in our rural backwater is its proximity to several UNESCO sites, one tiny stretch of which we regularly visit for dog walks. It is the Canal du Midi, a beautiful, serene stretch of water with a noteworthy history.
The canal was built between 1667 -1694. Its creation became hugely significant during the Industrial Revolution, helping to bring wealth to many areas along its route. But why has it achieved UNESCO status? I had a dig around to find out.
Why UNESCO?
The Canal du Midi begins in Toulouse and ends in the Thau Lagoon, Sète. At the time of its construction, it quickly became an industrial triumph and was considered a masterpiece in hydraulic engineering. This, together with the natural and urban landscapes it linked, makes it a priceless treasure considered worthy of preservation for future generations.
Impressive Stats
If the supply channels and branch canals are counted, the Canal du Midi stretches for 360 kilometres (223 miles). It encompasses 328 engineering structures: aqueducts, bridges, weirs, tunnels, and 77 locks, including lock ‘staircases’. Probably the most impressive is the Fonseranes lock in Béziers, which incorporates eight chambers and nine lock gates. It was designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet (whose engineering brilliance was behind the canal’s construction) and is considered an exceptional structure that allows boats to be raised or lowered a whopping 21.5 metres. We have never seen it, but it’s on our bucket list.
Linking Les Deux Mers
Creating the Canal du Midi was the largest building project of its time in France. Sadly, the project faced financial difficulties, temporarily halting progress in Toulouse. In the 19th century, it was extended by the Garonne Canal from Toulouse to Castets-en-Dorthe near Bordeaux. The whole forms the Canal des Deux Mers, extending from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. Just imagine!
As you’ll guess, the canal impacted industry domestically and indirectly across Europe as market opportunities expanded. Today, its use has switched to tourism, both on and off the water.
Places and Activities along the Canal du Midi
Taking a day trip, weekend, or a holiday aboard one of the boats that navigate the Canal du Midi is fun, and for good reason. Gradually altering scenes from endless maize fields to those quintessentially French sunflower crops, vineyards and gorgeous countryside entertain boaters, providing the perfect respite from the challenges of negotiating tricky lock gates.
As for stopping points, there are some treasures along this route. Some are celebrated for their beauty, others for their history, trade and cuisine. In our area, personal favourites include Carcassonne, which I adore. The extraordinary fairyland medieval fortress in Aude has a wow factor all of its own. Castelnaudary, close by, is often noted as the home of Cassoulet, a hearty stew made from white haricot beans, duck and Toulouse sausage. This pretty town is home to the magnificent four Saint Roch locks, which enable boats to traverse a drop of ten metres. Traditionally, it was a thriving port for trade along the canal, linking it to ‘La Ville Rose’, Occitanie’s regional capital.
Named after its pinky-orange terracotta bricks, Toulouse, with its magnificent historical and architectural sites, is bursting with vibrant bonhomie. Truly, though, there are many more villages and towns, each offering its own brand of Occitanie charm.
For those who prefer to keep their feet on terra firma, the canal towpath is a joy. In fact, it is possible to bisect the country west to east using a 750 km (466 miles) cycle/hiking path that runs alongside the Garonne and the Canal du Midi, linking Royan to Sète. That’s quite a feat.
Culinary Treasures
The culinary preparations in this area are legendary and have attracted stars from the world’s best chefs. Rick Stein was so enamoured that he took to the canal waterways to explore the region’s rich heritage.
Stein’s acclaimed TV series, A French Odyssey, features visits to charming village markets, meeting local chefs, and sampling authentic local food and wines. Renowned for his passion for French traditional dishes and local ingredients, Rick’s discovery of gastronomy and vibrant culinary culture here captures the essence of southwest ethos. The entire series is an utter delight.
For Us and our Dogs
Much closer to home, the Canal du Midi runs through Moissac with its ancient Saint-Pierre abbey and world-famous cloister, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This remarkable place is significant, including for its proximity to the Camino Way, a route which follows the canal towpath.
Dog walks here are glorious. During the hot summer, magnificent leafy plane trees offer shade to hot dogs and humans as we tread the same path used by pilgrims for centuries. We’ll watch boats faring lazily along the canal and make way for passing cyclists. It’s often a popular spot for picnickers, and we can understand why.
Just as often, we have long stretches of this majestic canal all to ourselves. If you’re in the area, you should visit. It’s tranquil, interesting and I’m sure you’d love it, too.”
Merci Beth, we hope you manage to cross a few lines from your bucket list, and please keep us informed about your travels and adventures throughout his amazingly diverse region of France. For more real-life stories about rural living in southwest France, discover Beth’s LAST BOOK, it’s just been released and would ideal as a Christmas gift.
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