Christmas Quirks in France
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Beth, our resident expert and storyteller from the picturesque Tarn-et-Garonne, takes us on a festive journey through some of the delightful Christmas traditions in France. From unexpected culinary customs to regional variations in celebrations, Beth shares her insights and anecdotes about what makes Noël so wonderfully distinctive. So grab a glass of vin chaud and join us in uncovering the magic of a French Christmas.
Ready for My French Christmas?
Crèche de la Nativité
The creation of nativity crèches began around the 13th century when churches displayed figurines of baby Jesus and other religious figures. Standard? Yes, but much later, this altered somewhat in France.
The French Revolution in 1789 imposed rigorous sanctions on religious practices. To get around the impositions, citizens in Provence started making santons: small, hand-painted clay figurines. They represented villagers and tradespeople interspersed with biblical figures.
This delightful tradition spread, and from the first Sunday of Advent or Saint Nicholas Day on the 6th of December, Nativity scenes are displayed across the country in homes, churches and public places. They’ll stay until the 2nd of February, the feast of La Chandeleur (Candlemass).
Churches and towns in our area proudly welcome the public to view their nativity scenes. We even have a route dedicated to a handful of villages that invite visitors to enjoy their displays. Each is lit with festive lighting, enhancing charming figurines, both secular and non-secular. It’s a lovely way to get into the Christmas spirit.
Christmas Markets
They’re becoming increasingly popular, but I reckon it’s hard to beat a traditional French Christmas market.
Picture the scene: Fairy lights hang from trees and buildings, corralling little stalls bursting with local and festive goodies such as foie gras and exquisite offerings from chocolatiers. Shoppers warm their hands with beakers of vin chaud, that delicious hot spiced red wine, or steaming hot chocolate as they browse or stand in line waiting for their crêpe to cook in the skillet. It only takes a couple of minutes. The aroma of sweet chestnuts, candy floss and burgers attracts others. They’ll wave at Père Noël (Santa Claus) strolling by, serenaded by rousing carols. The Christmas market in Strasbourg is commonly considered the best in France, but wherever you are, there’s likely to be one which is equally charming.
Père Noël and the Meanie
Père Noël is a universally genial chap, filled with bonhomie and bristling with gifts for children. But he isn’t always alone. A shadowy bogeyman with a dirty face and shaggy beard lurks, all dressed in black. This is Père Fouettard. He’s on the prowl to punish naughty children by beating them with branches. He’ll give them miserable gifts such as a piece of coal or a rotten potato.
Folks from Lorraine believe the myth of Père Fouettard dates to 1552 when the troops of Emperor Charles V besieged Metz. To bolster their fellow citizens, the city’s tanners made a mannequin with a whip in the image of the sovereign. They named him Père Fouettard. The shameful figure was displayed in the streets to chase youngsters, threatening to ‘tan their buttocks’. However, Alsatians disagree.
In Alsace, it is believed the character is based on a brutish man named Marshal Hans von Trotha. Born in 1737, he ransomed and pillaged travellers and peasants. Whatever the truth about the origins of this scary man, it pays to be good when Père Fouettard is around!
Le Réveillon
The French are famous for their cuisine, and there’s no finer occasion to sample its culinary excellence than at le Réveillon. This Christmas Eve culinary extravaganza is the main family Christmas feast. Traditionally, it began after la Messe de Minuit (midnight mass), but nowadays, it starts around 8 pm and often ends early on Christmas Day.
Multi-course menus will vary according to the region; here, sanglier (wild boar) usually features. The hot favourites are oysters, smoked salmon, foie gras and caviar, accompanied by wines and champagne. Lots of champagne. The dessert almost always includes la Bûche de Noël, a wonderfully indulgent Swiss roll-type pud. Originating in Provence, and often observed in other parts of France, the meal will conclude with Les Treize.
Les Treize
This centuries-old tradition is said to represent Jesus and his Twelve Apostles at the Last Supper. Each dish represents an aspect of regional culture or religion. They comprise dried fruit and nuts, fresh fruit, pompe à l’huile, a flavoured bread with orange flower water and olive oil, and Calissons d’Aix, a marzipan pastry topped with sugar icing. The desserts are often left out for three days, honouring the season’s spirit.
Shoes not Stockings
On the night before Christmas, excited children in many parts of the world leave out a stocking, hoping to wake the next day to find it stuffed with gifts. Here, it’s different. Children leave a shoe or slipper. The same applies, with the lucky ones receiving a santon, which will be treasured and passed down through the family.
Papillottes
At this time of year, stores will be stacked high with bonbons, including the unique, festive Papillottes – chocolate-coated candies. There are several accounts for its origins. One dates back to the 17th century and a young assistant candy maker who worked for Monsieur Papillot in Lyon. Falling in love with his boss’s niece, he wrote love notes inside the greaseproof paper of his confections to try and gain her favour.
Today, when opened, a shiny outer wrapping paper will reveal a saying. They’re a bit like fortune cookies. Regardless of the wise words, it’s hard to be disappointed with these delicious, sweet treats.
Christmas Day
The day is celebrated with a traditional roast. Favourites include stuffed goose or turkey, much the same as most folks. It tends to be a lower-key celebration, which is hardly surprising after the feasting the night before. Families generally take a long walk in the afternoon to work off the excesses – a ritual in our part of rural France.
Boxing Day is not celebrated in France, so it’s back to work as usual soon after.
Our Christmas will follow a similar pattern. Next week, we’re off to our local village night Christmas Market. It’s a tradition. It’s magical. Then comes our neighbours’ Christmas soirée. Quirkily, it takes place in our village layby. Around twenty-five of us will bring a contribution of eats and drinks and gather around a huge bonfire stoked with mighty logs. We’ll sing carols by the haphazardly lit Christmas tree before heading to our farms and village homes. It’s country life here as we know it. Simple. Precious.
Oh, and you know that British tradition that says bad luck will descend on anyone leaving their Christmas decs up after Twelfth Night? The French say Pah! to that. Decorations remain here until at least the end of the month. I rather like that. Joyeux Noël!”
Thanks a million, Beth. Have a fabulous Noel and Réveillon. Are the dogs allowed any Christmas leftovers? If you are reading our blog for the first time, and you don’t know Beth and her four-legged furry friends, she’s got a new book out. We can definitely confirm there’s never a dull moment!
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