As part of the famous Loire Valley, Indre-et-Loire (department code 37) offers an enticing glimpse of what the region has to offer on a wider scale. Located just a couple of hours’ drive from Paris, this department in west-central France is named after the two rivers that run through it, the Indre and the Loire, the latter of which is the longest in France. The Loire Valley is sometimes called the 'Valley of the Kings' because for many years it was the ruling centre of French royalty. From the late 14th century until the French Revolution, kings and noblemen built more than 300 chateaux in the region. Not only is Indre-et-Loire home to many of the most famous chateaux of the Loire Valley, but it also includes the region’s cultural capital, Tours. Added to this are slices of history, architecture and art everywhere you look, rolling hills and beautiful woods, lakes and river valleys (another moniker for the Loire Valley is the Garden of France because of its greenery and vegetation), as well as glorious weather (long summers see the temperature top 24ºC / 75ºF).
And, as with all areas of France, food and drink in Indre-et-Loire are fabulous, with dozens of products carrying the AOC designation of process and provenance. Local specialities include the caramelised apple pudding Tarte Tatin, goats cheese, fish caught in the River Loire, and wines from places such as Chinon.
If chateaux are your thing, some of the Loire Valley’s finest examples can be found in Indre-et-Loire, many of them located along the part of the Loire river that runs into the department from Saumur in the west, passing through Tours and on to Amboise.
More than a dozen of Indre-et-Loire’s chateaux are open to the public, with the most well-known and popular including three in Amboise: the favoured royal residence Chateau d'Amboise, Chateau de Clos-Lucé which was the home of Leonardo da Vinci from 1516 until his death there in 1519, and the Renaissance-style Domaine Royale de Château-Gaillard, created by a young King Charles VIII.
Other chateaux of note are the early 16th century Chateau d'Azay-le-Rideau with its superb French renaissance architecture, the dominant Chateau de Chinon dating back more than 1,000 years, the medieval Chateau de Langeais, and the beautiful Chateau de Chenonceau which is the most visited of all the Loire’s chateaux. If you’re a fan of beautiful gardens, you won’t be disappointed by the expansive grounds of the fairytale Chateau du Rivau and the stunning gardens of the Renaissance-era Chateau de Villandry.
Feeling a bit chateauxed-out? Not to worry, there’s lots more besides! From churches and monasteries, including the chapel at Champigny-sur-Veude, to the museum dedicated to Rabelais in his place of birth at Maison de la Devinière, there are a wealth of other historical buildings that are well worth seeking out.
Some of the handsome towns which sprang up around the chateaux are also well worth visiting in their own right, such as Amboise, Chinon and Langeais. Other towns that deserve a little exploration are Le Grand Pressigny, Loches, Richelieu, Vouvray and Rochecorbon.
Or perhaps take a stroll around some of the many pretty little villages that dot the region? There’s Montresor, Beaulieu-les-Loches and Chanceaux-prés-Loches in the east of the department, while further south are Ferriere-Larcon and Boussay, and the more northerly Saint-Ouen-les-Vignes. Travel west and you’ll find more little gems in the form of Lerné, Faye-la-Vineuse, Ussé and Tavant.
The administrative centre of Indre-et-Loire is Tours, a must-see city that was a focus for Christian evangelisation from 375 AD and later became a centre of learning in the Middle Ages. Its location at the meeting point of the Loire and Cher rivers, and the wealthy individuals who lived in the region, also helped Tours become a centre for the manufacture of silk and other luxury goods.
Today, a visit to Tours reveals a wealth of historic and cultural delights which illustrate the important role it occupied over the centuries, including the medieval Place Plumereau, and various churches and monuments.
But the most impressive of the historic buildings in Tours is the gothic Cathedral of Saint-Gatien, with its awe-inspiring architecture, intricate stonework and imposing gargoyles. Built over a period of about 400 years beginning in the 12th century, the cathedral also features some stunning examples of stained glass windows, including three rose windows.
At the north of the cathedral is the gothic and renaissance-styled cloister of La Psalette, which was built in the 15th and 16th centuries. Here can be found pretty gardens, a lovely spiral staircase, a small chapel, several galleries and the old scriptorium and library. Don’t miss the opportunity to see the stunning views of the cathedral from the terrace.
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